{"id":343926,"date":"2025-05-12T14:00:37","date_gmt":"2025-05-12T18:00:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.sothebysrealty.com\/?p=343926"},"modified":"2025-10-16T16:45:41","modified_gmt":"2025-10-16T20:45:41","slug":"collecting-focus-high-jewelry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/collecting-focus-high-jewelry\/","title":{"rendered":"Collecting Focus: High Jewelry"},"content":{"rendered":"

The world of high and fine jewelry collecting is attracting a new generation of luxury gem hunters, writes Victoria Gomelsky<\/span><\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/a>The 55.22-carat \u2018Estrela de Fura\u2019 Ruby at Sotheby\u2019s New York, which sold at auction for US$34.8 million in June 2023. Photograph: \u00a9 Sotheby\u2019s<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Not long after Catharine Becket joined the jewelry department at Sotheby\u2019s in 2005, she and her colleagues faced some big questions about the future of jewelry. \u201cMillennials were starting to become a buying force in the world and it became apparent to us that many of them prized experiences over objects,\u201d says Becket, now senior vice president and global head of high jewelry at Sotheby\u2019s. \u201cThere was a bit of anxiety in the industry as people wondered: \u2018Are buyers aging out? Will people forgo a diamond engagement ring because they want to take an around-the-world tour?\u2019 This loomed large in our thinking. And then, lo and behold, it became acceptable\u2014even fashionable\u2014to buy luxury objects again, including jewelry.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

The pandemic certainly fast-tracked the shift \u2013 \u201cYou couldn\u2019t travel, so you went shopping,\u201d Becket says \u2013 but social media usage, especially among Gen Z, has arguably played an even bigger role in shaping the tastes of modern collectors of jewelry. \u201cWe have seen a dramatic increase in buyers under 40,\u201d Becket says. \u201cPreviously, our sweet spot would be people in their 50s, 60s and into their 70s.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Among this new generation of buyers, branded jewels from established houses (think Trinity bracelets from Cartier, and Alhambra pendants from Van Cleef & Arpels) are highly coveted because clients \u201care seeing them on their peers as status symbols,\u201d Becket says. \u201cThen, as their tastes develop and their budgets expand, they might move toward the high jewelry lines and the one-of-a-kind pieces. Of course, that\u2019s a much higher price of entry.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>The gold and diamond \u2018Trinity\u2019 bracelet by Cartier. Photograph: \u00a9 Sotheby\u2019s<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

To define \u201chigh jewelry\u201d simply by price, however, would be missing the point. \u201cWe could have, say, a $10,000 piece, but it might be incredibly rare, or it has a really distinguished provenance\u2014maybe from a royal collection,\u201d Becket says. \u201cAnd because of that, we want to place it alongside other pieces in a high jewelry sale.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

As a general rule, Becket notes, high jewels boast rarity, provenance and\/or the signature of a top maker. Rare and sizable stones, such as the 10.03-carat <\/span>Mediterranean Blue<\/span><\/a>\u2014a fancy vivid blue diamond going on the block on May 13 at Sotheby\u2019s <\/span>High Jewelry sale in Geneva<\/span><\/a>, where it\u2019s expected to bring around $20 million\u2014also qualify.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

But every jewelry sale at Sotheby\u2019s reflects the market\u2019s evolving tastes, whether it\u2019s in Hong Kong, home to more contemporary jewels; Geneva, a bastion of antique and royal pieces (\u201cIt\u2019s not a Geneva sale without a tiara,\u201d Becket says); or New York, which is hosting its <\/span>High Jewelry sale<\/span><\/a> on June 13, and often features all of the above.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>A one-of-kind \u2018tie necklace\u2019 by Van Cleef & Arpels, <\/span>circa<\/span> 1929, at Sotheby\u2019s New York, which sold at auction for US$3.6 million in June 2024. Photograph: \u00a9 Sotheby\u2019s<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

For buyers contemplating a purchase this season, there are a few key trends to keep in mind, according to Becket. \u201cWhen I joined in 2005, and in the years prior, art deco was perennially in style, and it makes sense\u2014it\u2019s about such classic, relatively simple forms,\u201d she says. \u201cBut for the first time last year, we noticed a slight softening in the deco market. It still does well, but it isn\u2019t guaranteed to \u2018go through the roof.\u2019 Jewelry tends to go in arcs of about seven years. And Bulgari has been on fire for five or so years. And that has overlapped with the popularity of bold and gold jewels.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Becket says there are opportunities in antique jewels, or any jewel older than 100 years, because they are rare, beautiful, and remain relatively affordable. This goes for jewels from the Retro period of the late 1930s and 1940s, too. \u201cIt\u2019s the period that everyone who works in the industry really loves,\u201d she says. \u201cThey didn\u2019t have much in the way of materials during World War II. Platinum was scarce because it was used in the war effort. So you had these big yellow gold looks, but often the gold was thinner.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>A Retro period emerald and diamond bangle by Trabert & Hoeffer\u2013Mauboussin. Photograph: \u00a9 Sotheby\u2019s<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

As a newcomer building a collection, it\u2019s important to clarify your goal, Becket says. \u201cDo you want to have your classic jewelry wardrobe? \u201cIn which case, you\u2019re going to have your diamond studs, pearls\u2014which you can buy quite affordably these days\u2014and a great chunky gold bracelet.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cBut I think there\u2019s a case to be made for the character of your collection,\u201d she adds. \u201cYou sometimes learn more about the personality of the owner from a Van Cleef scarecrow brooch versus their 10-carat diamond ring.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Explore Sotheby\u2019s <\/span><\/i>jewelry sales<\/span><\/i><\/a> and how to <\/span><\/i>consign your jewelry with Sotheby\u2019s<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Our Collecting Focus series also features expert advice on <\/span><\/i>watches<\/span><\/i><\/a>, <\/span><\/i>wine<\/span><\/i><\/a>, <\/span><\/i>historic books<\/span><\/i><\/a>, <\/span><\/i>modern and contemporary prints<\/span><\/i><\/a> and <\/span><\/i>Americana<\/span><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The world of high and fine jewelry collecting is attracting a new generation of luxury gem hunters, writes Victoria Gomelsky The 55.22-carat \u2018Estrela de Fura\u2019 Ruby at Sotheby\u2019s New York, which sold at auction for US$34.8 million in June 2023. Photograph: \u00a9 Sotheby\u2019s Not long after Catharine Becket joined the jewelry department at Sotheby\u2019s in […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":232770370,"featured_media":343927,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"advanced_seo_description":"","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"jetpack_seo_schema_type":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_wpcom_ai_launchpad_first_post":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_hide_featured_image":false,"_jetpack_featured_image_duplicate_dismissed":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1393],"tags":[1487],"class_list":["post-343926","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-art-and-culture","tag-sothebys"],"jetpack_likes_enabled":false,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pf4gbL-1rtc","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":345608,"url":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/collecting-focus-holiday-gifting\/","url_meta":{"origin":343926,"position":0},"title":"Collecting Focus: Holiday Gifting","author":"Natalie Davis","date":"December 11, 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"Find an expertly curated edit of one-off collectables with Sotheby\u2019s Buy Now option, from watches and jewels to rare children\u2019s books, writes Katie Armstrong A holiday bauble celebrating Sotheby\u2019s new headquarters at the Breuer Building, New York. Photograph: Sotheby\u2019s The holiday season is here, and with it, the joys and\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Art and Culture"","block_context":{"text":"Art and Culture","link":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/category\/art-and-culture\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"platinum and gold necklace with rubies and diamonds","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Sothebys-Platinum-Gold-Ruby-Necklace.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Sothebys-Platinum-Gold-Ruby-Necklace.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Sothebys-Platinum-Gold-Ruby-Necklace.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Sothebys-Platinum-Gold-Ruby-Necklace.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Sothebys-Platinum-Gold-Ruby-Necklace.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Sothebys-Platinum-Gold-Ruby-Necklace.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":344585,"url":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/collecting-focus-music-memorabilia\/","url_meta":{"origin":343926,"position":1},"title":"Collecting Focus: Music Memorabilia","author":"Kate Marburger","date":"September 18, 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"Acquiring an instrument or manuscript touched by rock \u2019n\u2019 roll royalty can be a deeply personal and nostalgic experience The \u201cFreddie Mercury: A World of His Own\u201d exhibition at Sotheby\u2019s London in 2023. Photograph: Sotheby\u2019s \u00a0 Sotheby\u2019s has a long history of selling rock and pop memorabilia. In 1984, John\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Home and Design"","block_context":{"text":"Home and Design","link":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/category\/home-and-design\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Music-Memorabilia_Freddie-Mercury-costumes-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Music-Memorabilia_Freddie-Mercury-costumes-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Music-Memorabilia_Freddie-Mercury-costumes-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Music-Memorabilia_Freddie-Mercury-costumes-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Music-Memorabilia_Freddie-Mercury-costumes-1.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Music-Memorabilia_Freddie-Mercury-costumes-1.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":344432,"url":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/collecting-focus-contemporary-art\/","url_meta":{"origin":343926,"position":2},"title":"Collecting Focus: Contemporary Art","author":"Kate Marburger","date":"August 18, 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"Sotheby\u2019s New York is inviting first-time buyers to explore art at auction with its upcoming Open House, writes Katie Armstrong David Hockney\u2019s \u201cTerrace Hollywood Hills House with Banana Tree,\u201d 1982 at the Contemporary Day Auction on 16 May 2025 at Sotheby\u2019s New York. Photograph: Sotheby\u2019s Buying contemporary art and collectables\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Art and Culture"","block_context":{"text":"Art and Culture","link":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/category\/art-and-culture\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Header-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Header-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Header-2.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Header-2.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Header-2.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Header-2.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":342578,"url":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/collecting-focus-pop-culture-memorabilia\/","url_meta":{"origin":343926,"position":3},"title":"Collecting Focus: Pop Culture Memorabilia","author":"SIR Admin","date":"August 26, 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Celebrity culture has created a market for collectibles that is growing at unprecedented speed, writes Victoria Woodcock Stage costumes on show at the Sotheby\u2019s exhibition \u201cFreddie Mercury: A World of His Own\u201d When \u201cFreddie Mercury: A World of His Own\u201d rocked up at Sotheby\u2019s in London last August, it brought\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Art and Culture"","block_context":{"text":"Art and Culture","link":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/category\/art-and-culture\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/static-sir-corp-blog-production.gtsstatic.net\/blog-api\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/2RFNDGDresized.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/static-sir-corp-blog-production.gtsstatic.net\/blog-api\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/2RFNDGDresized.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/static-sir-corp-blog-production.gtsstatic.net\/blog-api\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/2RFNDGDresized.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/static-sir-corp-blog-production.gtsstatic.net\/blog-api\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/2RFNDGDresized.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":347366,"url":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/collecting-focus-space-exploration\/","url_meta":{"origin":343926,"position":4},"title":"Collecting Focus: Space Exploration","author":"Natalie Davis","date":"July 9, 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Sotheby\u2019s Geek Week is a dream for collectors with stars in their eyes, writes Aimee Dawson, as interest in out-of-this-world artifacts booms The First American Spacewalk. Color photograph signed and inscribed by Jim McDivitt. Photograph: Courtesy of Sotheby\u2019s Space has rarely felt closer. Millions watched in awe in April 2026\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Art and Culture"","block_context":{"text":"Art and Culture","link":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/category\/art-and-culture\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"color photo of Apollo 7 liftoff in the Sotheby's New York Geek Week Collection","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Sothebys-Space_Apollo-7-liftoff.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Sothebys-Space_Apollo-7-liftoff.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Sothebys-Space_Apollo-7-liftoff.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Sothebys-Space_Apollo-7-liftoff.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Sothebys-Space_Apollo-7-liftoff.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Sothebys-Space_Apollo-7-liftoff.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":346456,"url":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/collecting-focus-fine-art-photography\/","url_meta":{"origin":343926,"position":5},"title":"Collecting Focus: Fine Art Photography","author":"Natalie Davis","date":"April 6, 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"One couple\u2019s remarkable private collection perfectly captures the transportive power of photography, writes Katie Armstrong A 2024 exhibition of photography at Sotheby\u2019s New York. Photograph: Sotheby\u2019s The world\u2019s oldest surviving photograph,\u00a0\u201cView from the Window at Le Gras,\u201d was taken by Joseph Nic\u00e9phore Ni\u00e9pce in the mid-1820s. The subject was simple:\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Art and Culture"","block_context":{"text":"Art and Culture","link":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/category\/art-and-culture\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"an exhibition of fine art photography at Sotheby's New York","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Photographs-Exhibition-Sothebys-New-York-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Photographs-Exhibition-Sothebys-New-York-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Photographs-Exhibition-Sothebys-New-York-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Photographs-Exhibition-Sothebys-New-York-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Photographs-Exhibition-Sothebys-New-York-1.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Photographs-Exhibition-Sothebys-New-York-1.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/header-2.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/343926","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/232770370"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=343926"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/343926\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":345097,"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/343926\/revisions\/345097"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/343927"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=343926"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=343926"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sothebysrealty.com\/extraordinary-living-blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=343926"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}